Aya Sofya and Archaeology

29 July 2014
Our first stop was Aya Sofya, it's Turkish name, but also seen as Hagia Sophia, it's Orthodox name. As a sanctified space, we can't call it a church, cathedral or mosque,but it has been all of those since 537. The land it sits on has been used for a church since the year 360.

Little cat in the corner of one door leading from the former narthex to the sanctuary.

Aya Sofya's long history makes it interesting and compelling to many,many visitors. The space itself feels as familiar as any large cathedral or basilica.  But the orientation of some of the interiors were angled toward Mecca when the building became a mosque. Islam does not show faces in art so the mosaics were covered up, although with plaster and pieces of them have been restored. They must have been incredible since the gold backgrounds on the pieces that exist still have a glow. The dome overhead is the most impressive because it is light inside and the dome is 184 ft high. There are huge Ottoman medallions that look new (they aren't) and so it is possible to see Islam calligraphy and Christian pictures side by side in the space. 

Difficult to photograph from my distance and small camera.

Medallion on right and mosaic on left.

 

A couple from Pakistan (they'd actually been to Woodstock NY!) who we shared a hired guide with thought that this side-by-side of two major faiths was most significant. Our guide spend much time on the tour focusing Mark and I on Islam and how much he wanted peace. He also gave Mark a pocket size English copy of the Koran.

Last amazing view for this part of our day: There are stones from the ruins of the older buildings the predated the current Aya Sophya and they are just collected into areas on the grounds and people walk among them and sit on them This just amazed us! Ancient artifacts are so rare in the States, this seems so cavalier!

We spend the afternoon at the archeological museum-- parts of it at least. We took a look at the Troy exhibit since we are heading there next week.

Back for a dip in the roof top pool with amazing views of minarets and then we went back to the old city for dinner.

The streets are packed in the old part of the city, but many shops (and there are more shops here than anywhere I have ever been) are closed. Eid is still being celebrated. We had a slow meal at a restaurant that cooked food in the style from Ankara. I loved my eggplant and lamb dish, but the waiter told me I would have to come back to his restaurant or else go to Ankara if I ever wanted to have it again.

Our tram ride back was full of humanity-- actually, it was just full of humans. Three trams came and went before we were able to squeeze on one. I was surrounded by men in their 20's, all strap hangers. One had his plastic bag of take-out dinner on his wrist which kept banging into my ear. Mark looked down and said, "That's sort of in in your way..."--well, not more than all the arm pits around me. I could barely keep a straight face.